There's a stretch in northern Washington where the trees close over the trail and the wind dies and you can hear your own footsteps again for the first time in weeks. I walked it at dusk, alone, and it was the quietest mile I've ever logged.

Quiet is loud on trail

On a thru-hike you're never really alone — hikers, roads, the hum of your own tired legs. Silence becomes a thing you notice, like a weather event.

Walk it slow

If you ever get to mile 2,400 or so, and the light is going and the trees close in — slow down. You'll miss that mile when it's over.